tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-63865195035116452362024-03-05T17:52:25.369-08:00Simply Epic AdventuresBike | Hill Walk | Climb | Hill Skills |
Mountain Bike Skills | Canoeing | Event ManagementCraig Coidhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07514432923293968340noreply@blogger.comBlogger156125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6386519503511645236.post-51682617365616266532019-01-08T07:26:00.001-08:002019-01-08T07:32:07.284-08:00Stitching it up…<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: 9.0pt;">The Seam 1V 5</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: 9.0pt;">Some pics on the 22 December of Mark and Craig climbing
The Seam.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: 9.0pt;">We have been trying to get on this for years but conditions and
parties in front finally gave way on a marginal day (for the 3hr each way
drive) that gave great climbing on both pitches. Dan came along so the belays
were a sociable chat fest!</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: 9.0pt;">A really great route well worth the wait and
worthy of a repeat if winter returns…</span><br />
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</style>Vertical Obsessionhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09591033178589270966noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6386519503511645236.post-76151964777333794922019-01-08T05:03:00.001-08:002019-01-08T07:32:01.804-08:00
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<span style="font-family: "Verdana",sans-serif; font-size: 9.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman";">Mr Blue Sky...</span><span style="mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman";"></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Verdana",sans-serif; font-size: 9.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman";">The Simply Epic Adventure summer <span style="color: black; mso-themecolor: text1;">A</span>lps trip was a while ago, but
I thought I would write up a paragraph or two more as an <span style="color: black; mso-themecolor: text1;">Aide-aide memoire </span>to Craig and
myself for future trips.</span><span style="mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman";"></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Verdana",sans-serif; font-size: 9.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman";">Deciding to drive we hired a T6, great,
3hrs each at the wheel and we would be there in no time! All we could manage
was 2 hrs each and even at that,<span style="color: red;"></span> I thought it
was hard work. Having driven to <span style="color: black; mso-themecolor: text1;">the
Alps </span>before this was a surprise, but then it was in a fast-sporty car
and not a van.</span><span style="mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman";"></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Verdana",sans-serif; font-size: 9.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman";">We rolled into the cable station<span style="color: red;"> </span><span style="color: black; mso-themecolor: text1;">i</span>n
Saas Grund after 20 odd hrs of driving, tired and weary but with incoming rain
forecast we packed light and headed up to climb Alpindurst. This is a great
route that I had climbed before with G and knew Craig would love it. The
climbing is never difficult but the length, exposure and surrounding 4000m
peaks makes for an unforgettable experience.</span><span style="mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman";"></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Verdana",sans-serif; font-size: 9.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman";">We climbed fast but after 10 <span style="color: black; mso-themecolor: text1;">pitches</span> knew that we would
miss the last bin down. The rain came in true alpine style as we topped out so
we quickly packed and headed for the long walk back to the valley<span style="color: red;">. T</span>his took several hrs and our feet felt
shredded, but thankfully neither of us had blisters (note for the future, don’t
miss the last bin and thick socks work with trainers).</span><span style="mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman";"></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Verdana",sans-serif; font-size: 9.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman";">We popped up the roof and slept like
dogs till the carpark opened (again) in the morning… </span><span style="mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman";"></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Verdana",sans-serif; font-size: 9.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman";">Craig being super keen went to charm
the lift staff with the plan we could use yesterday’s “down” tickets to go “up”
so we could bike down. He wore them down. But only to the middle station. The
middle station was without staff so we carried on up to Hohass leaving Craig
again to talk his version of Swiss German to allow us through the gates at the
top… he wore them down eventually and we sat on the edge of the <span style="color: black; mso-themecolor: text1;">glacier</span><span style="color: red;">
</span>having a Cappuccino (2 shot Americano for me, obviously).</span><span style="mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman";"></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Verdana",sans-serif; font-size: 9.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman";">Not having mountain <span style="color: black; mso-themecolor: text1;">biked</span> for 2 years I felt uneasy
but there was only one way off the hill and that was down, so off we went,
Craig whooping and doing jumps, me howling and holding on. Once back at the van
I had to admit it was thrilling and I enjoyed every (other) <span style="color: black; mso-themecolor: text1;">minute. </span>We loaded the van and
headed for Cham and an improving weather picture.</span><span style="mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman";"></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Verdana",sans-serif; font-size: 9.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman";">We arrived to flooded drains and
gridlock so made our way to Gaillands to live van life for a week.</span><span style="mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman";"></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Verdana",sans-serif; font-size: 9.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman";">The weather improved next morning so up
we went to suck some thin air, check conditions and climb Cosmic <span style="color: black; mso-themecolor: text1;">A</span>rête. This is always good fun
and we had it to ourselves. I did the usual comedy act when climbing back onto
the viewing platform and got a bunch of kids to <span style="color: black; mso-themecolor: text1;">haul</span><span style="color: red;"> </span>on the rope to
bring Craig up. We laughed and posed for pics with the kids and <span style="color: black; mso-themecolor: text1;">a group of </span>Japanese<span style="color: black; mso-themecolor: text1;"> people -</span><span style="color: red;"> </span>it was very funny.</span><span style="mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman";"></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Verdana",sans-serif; font-size: 9.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman";">The weather for the next week was good
in the morning but thunder and rain in the afternoon so we climbed high in the
morning from the first bin and mountain biked in the afternoon using the
various uplifts in the valley.</span><span style="mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman";"></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Verdana",sans-serif; font-size: 9.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman";">Having the van and bikes was great as
it gave us the flexibility to do something daily when it rains. The drive back
to the UK was as bad for me as the drive out. Craig managed better but we both
struggled with fatigue, drank too much coffee and ate things we would never eat
only to try and keep awake and alert (note, we would do it again).</span><span style="mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman";"></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Verdana",sans-serif; font-size: 9.0pt; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman";">Some pics of the trip…</span></div>
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</style>Vertical Obsessionhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09591033178589270966noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6386519503511645236.post-42279012518760486872018-06-01T08:38:00.001-07:002018-06-01T08:38:36.601-07:00BDO...
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<span style="font-family: "Verdana",sans-serif; font-size: 9.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 11.0pt;">19 May 2018</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Verdana",sans-serif; font-size: 9.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size: 11.0pt;"><br /></span></div>
<span style="font-family: "Verdana",sans-serif; font-size: 9.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-GB; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-font-size: 11.0pt; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-bidi-theme-font: minor-bidi; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-latin;">A couple of pics from the Inaccessible
Pinnacle, Sgùrr Dearg on the Cuillin a couple of weeks back. <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>I have the high res version guys if you want
them (just laundered your email addresses).</span><br />
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</style>Vertical Obsessionhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09591033178589270966noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6386519503511645236.post-59755625052702255442018-05-28T14:10:00.001-07:002018-05-29T07:34:40.309-07:00Taps Aff...<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;">
Saturday 19 May</div>
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Craig and Mark saw the sun and went for Observatory Ridge on Ben Nevis as part of a hopeful plan for the Matterhorn this summer and a good training ground for moving together on steeper ground. Neither has done it before and it was fun 'route finding' on the steepest bits we could find.</div>
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It's a wonderful route and well worth a visit but there are some interesting bits which would be more challenging in winter. That said, it would need a proper alpine start in winter as its a long way with proper route finding challenges no doubt - that's what happens when you don't look at the guide book!</div>
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It gives wonderful views over the Minus Face and Orion Face, with a great view of Point Five too - plenty of water running in it!</div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A very wet Point 5<br />
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It's a route that just keeps giving and when you think it's about to level out, another steep wall appears in front to go at. More challenging than Tower Ridge but just as enjoyable with perhaps a more claustrophobic feel, as TR is not walled in the way OR seems.</div>
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Anyway, we enjoyed it immensely and will go back soon to the Ben for training and fun.</div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Tower Ridge in all its glory</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Wintery exit slope :)</td></tr>
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<br />Craig Coidhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07514432923293968340noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6386519503511645236.post-49167525253844427082018-03-05T08:35:00.002-08:002018-03-05T14:29:15.459-08:00Mano Destra Italiana...<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: 9.0pt;">3 March 2018</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: 9.0pt;">Craig and Mark have had a good couple of weeks climbing...</span></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: 9.0pt;">Raeburn’s Ordinary Route Hand </span></b><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: 9.0pt;">(IV 4) is far from ordinary and is a favourite of ours, we
went left from the second belay to make the route even better.</span></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: 9.0pt;">Curved Ridge</span></b><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: 9.0pt;"> (III 3) in good but powder snow cover.</span></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: 9.0pt;">Shelf Route</span></b><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: 9.0pt;"> (IV 6) (bailed) due to the amount of snow and lack of good
placements en-route.</span></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: 9.0pt;">Chockstone Gully</span></b><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: 9.0pt;"> (II) suited the high winds and avalanche forecast being low
down on the Cobbler.</span></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: 9.0pt;">Original Summer</span></b><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: 9.0pt;"> (IV 6) Cairngorms, Dan came along to make it a
rather sociable day out.</span></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: 9.0pt;">McLay’s Crack</span></b><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: 9.0pt;"> (III 4) on the Cobbler got another visit on a better than
forecast day that happened to be Mark's Birthday so Craig carried the rack in and
out!</span></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: 9.0pt;">Crowberry Gully </span></b><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: 9.0pt;">(IV 4)<b> </b>in fat easy conditions with views to America
from the top.</span></div>
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<b><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: 9.0pt;">Italian Right Hand</span></b><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif; font-size: 9.0pt;"> (IV 4) great but short route on a very windy day.</span></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjmveKY4ouSlU1uIl0XM0sWKeCyJe-nJRYZeHsLRrNAadHlhdQsjzXwAO7lY2IOUMwWlK8HP_LqmPRR0K_MGVkj8U_ngeSHvbHIq3pS2kJAo34MwY2DW41MpH-dXqrjv8pX_JydaZjBDag/s1600/MMCG_ORC.jpeg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjmveKY4ouSlU1uIl0XM0sWKeCyJe-nJRYZeHsLRrNAadHlhdQsjzXwAO7lY2IOUMwWlK8HP_LqmPRR0K_MGVkj8U_ngeSHvbHIq3pS2kJAo34MwY2DW41MpH-dXqrjv8pX_JydaZjBDag/s400/MMCG_ORC.jpeg" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Original Summer Route</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Italian Right Hand</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg58cLvI6Izdd5yMFyeqHfGnGFd6oShG7Iy-AiMq_PkUepKbfULK2TGdwcqY07wIRNTDeGipGo6FTcs5PouaZfs2kYjQ2J6Afqcuz2xK0z7buef_kpeaFbiPwoU1NqC7ADC3SnXazpG0_82/s1600/GPTempDownload-1.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg58cLvI6Izdd5yMFyeqHfGnGFd6oShG7Iy-AiMq_PkUepKbfULK2TGdwcqY07wIRNTDeGipGo6FTcs5PouaZfs2kYjQ2J6Afqcuz2xK0z7buef_kpeaFbiPwoU1NqC7ADC3SnXazpG0_82/s400/GPTempDownload-1.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Mark topping out on Italian</td></tr>
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Vertical Obsessionhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09591033178589270966noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6386519503511645236.post-55817403692026131182018-02-21T14:00:00.002-08:002018-02-22T02:38:24.836-08:00Chasing Ice...and sometimes rainCraig and Mark have been out chasing conditions recently and have had some success and some good days without a route to bag.<br />
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We bailed from Shelf Route in soft heavy snow but have also had great days on the Cobbler, Gorms and the Coe.<br />
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We've ricked off Chockstone Gully and McLay's Crack on the Cobbler, SummerRoute in the Gorms in nice nick and Raeburn's Route and Curved Ridge in the Coe. We sought days on routes around Bridge of Orchy without success and await a chance to get on the Ben this season. <br />
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Routes on the card include Moonshadow and Shelf Route (Coe), Seam and Patey's Route (Gorms) and Hadrian's Wall and Orion on the Ben; we remain ever optimistic conditions will allow at least some of the action.<br />
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Notwithstanding, it's been an interesting winter with much early scoping of conditions, weather patterns and avalanche warnings helping to inform on suitable and safe routes. We have turned round from some objectives and continue to build on our skills to stay safe in winter...as we always say, 'no dead heroes'; the climb will be there for another day. <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjS0Bz1p4U2bp_eZ0d2STlzEw3vNUzP9Ici7kpxlxyy5Bgp-vrjmFuEFHPldo0nXMNcFPtYMPgGdykPTjuuhzhLoXI4yTdv_FDxR1IMJqYWRoHf8Tv81S7PoK2Txey0K_Iu6jt70tExxVNp/s1600/DSCN9019.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjS0Bz1p4U2bp_eZ0d2STlzEw3vNUzP9Ici7kpxlxyy5Bgp-vrjmFuEFHPldo0nXMNcFPtYMPgGdykPTjuuhzhLoXI4yTdv_FDxR1IMJqYWRoHf8Tv81S7PoK2Txey0K_Iu6jt70tExxVNp/s400/DSCN9019.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Mark on Curved Ridge</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Mark high on Curved Ridge</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjEwn3xxrhX5FQfX8C8Xcq67c_HfaQIX9BMbMYxzPAC5tb5s2-hI_4A9M7y1TKfYKstKEs-l0um7cjj6gkVmSYhToZwJlZ3N6z051qqGfawRox88IYl9XwwJpsH-GWgQuSSXpGM8tjkkF93/s1600/IMG_6175+3.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjEwn3xxrhX5FQfX8C8Xcq67c_HfaQIX9BMbMYxzPAC5tb5s2-hI_4A9M7y1TKfYKstKEs-l0um7cjj6gkVmSYhToZwJlZ3N6z051qqGfawRox88IYl9XwwJpsH-GWgQuSSXpGM8tjkkF93/s400/IMG_6175+3.JPG" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Chockstone Gully</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhOVo7FusxVQdyTyWLcsZ1Y7i5NdNzOUtdlD8naV7qddpHAorptBUpQZ7Ld7DYJ1vpOmOQ_vzrrCPF_LBJadMMbKpq5ARn_BBQMO_w-FpqHtnaJ3EHUzLDlr8QJfbJDkhbvoP-Z47qDBTmS/s1600/MMCG_ORC.jpeg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhOVo7FusxVQdyTyWLcsZ1Y7i5NdNzOUtdlD8naV7qddpHAorptBUpQZ7Ld7DYJ1vpOmOQ_vzrrCPF_LBJadMMbKpq5ARn_BBQMO_w-FpqHtnaJ3EHUzLDlr8QJfbJDkhbvoP-Z47qDBTmS/s400/MMCG_ORC.jpeg" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Mark on Summer Direct Alladin's Buttress</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Craig on McLay's Crack</td></tr>
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<br />Craig Coidhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07514432923293968340noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6386519503511645236.post-82825810155641967462018-01-04T03:31:00.001-08:002018-01-04T03:31:09.833-08:00Christmas Frolics<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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Over the Christmas period, the team have tried to get out and do some stuff but generally the weather has acted against us. Despite that, we got out a bit, got wet, climbed a bit and had fun. <br />
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Craig and Mark got out and swam up the Zig Zags in Glen Coe...a fun 'go to' route in poor weather and it was poor that day with water gushing down the route after a turbo thaw.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Mark on the chimney...wet</td></tr>
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Next up was a trip to the 'Gorms and finding something to climb. We got onto Original Summer Route on Alladin's Buttress and found soft unhelpful snow but we had fun and it actually felt like winter climbing for the first time this season.</div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Craig on P1 </td></tr>
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On 30 December, Craig and Mark headed for a very wintery Cobbler and found lots of snow (comparatively) and some wld winds. We kept to lower ground on Chockstone Buttress area and climbed something at its far end. It felt a bit thin in the wrong places with plenty snow on the easier angled slopes. All in, a great wee climb which we thought went around III (4? maybe) with some interesting moves on steep steps. </div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Mark getting into the heart of P1t</td></tr>
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Earlier in December, we also got into Stob Corrie nan Lochan and got onto Twisting Gully but conditions were soft and thin and after P1 we dabbed off and went for a walk. <br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Mark coming up P1</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A thin gully line!</td></tr>
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The NY hopefully brings some colder snaps to freeze the pack and get us climbing some new routes. This weekend is looking cold and should brings us some nice conditions to get swinging those axes in earnest. <br />
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Happy New Year to one and all...let's hope it's a good one.Craig Coidhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07514432923293968340noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6386519503511645236.post-84901463745629307012017-11-26T01:41:00.001-08:002017-11-26T12:58:57.551-08:00Optimistic OpticsCraig and Mark went for the first outing of the season to the 'Gorms in the hope of some action. The usual early start saw them at the carpark around 8 and a quick walk in saw them at the Snechda lochans looking at black rock. <br />
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The walk in was more positive looking but the wind has scoured the upper corrie with pockets of windslab in abundance and well frozen ground in scoured areas. The windchill was making it very cold and wind blown snow was making visibility difficult at times.<br />
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We chatted with other parties and went for a walk to see what conditions were like on Aladdin's Buttress. It was very black and not much looked in but Patey's Route was the whitest of the lot and we went to scope things without much anticipation as it is more of an ice route but we wondered if things would work in mixed conditions.<br />
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We rocked up and Mark set off up the first pitch; sadly, the deeper protection of the gully meant the snow was way too soft, turf not sufficiently frozen and things all a bit sketchy. After battling up part of the first pitch, common sense prevailed and we decided to bin the day for coffee and cake in town.<br />
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The tools, rack and ropes got a walk and we're stoked for some better condition in early course.<br />
Some pics of the day...<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Mark on first pitch </td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Spiciest moment of the day</td></tr>
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<br />Craig Coidhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07514432923293968340noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6386519503511645236.post-31559369849729658192017-09-06T02:05:00.001-07:002017-09-06T02:13:30.769-07:00The DEVIL is in the detail...<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Saturday 2 September</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">With time running out to <a href="https://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=6386519503511645236#editor/target=post;postID=1655328726341016434;onPublishedMenu=allposts;onClosedMenu=allposts;postNum=7;src=link">Linda’s</a>
next birthday Mark was under pressure to magic some fine weather for a day
out on Tower Ridge. With the help of some contacts it was agreed that
the sun would shine on Saturday. So at 4:30am they left Glasgow and drove
in the dark to Fort William.</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">Mark takes up the story...<br /><br />Mist and low cloud greeted us as we walked into the CIC with Linda questioning if the</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><a href="http://www.douglashistory.co.uk/history/william_douglas.html#.Wa-2EIqQxR5" target="_blank">Douglas boulder</a> was actually a boulder! Eh, no, I guess not, but then I have never really given it any thought!<br /><br />We played leap frog with the boys from Newcastle and headed on up into the mist meeting</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;"><a href="http://www.chauvinguides.com/" target="_blank">Marc Chauvin</a> and wife at the little tower.<br /><br />Linda
was trusting her feet and climbing well so fast progress was made to
the Eastern traverse and the fallen block chimney. Next up, walk the
plank and get lowered into the gap. All done without hesitation or
deviation. Summit sarnies and news that the Ben Nevis race was about to
start made us decide to take in the CMD arête just as the sun burnt
through, giving us fantastic views of the North Face.</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;"><span style="font-family: "verdana" , sans-serif;">A Simply Epic day leaving <a href="http://www.simplyepicadventures.co.uk/2016/10/florence.html">Linda</a> looking forward to her next birthday... </span></span></div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: white;">Linda McFall</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="color: white;">Linda McFall</span></td></tr>
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<br />Vertical Obsessionhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09591033178589270966noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6386519503511645236.post-30125351252551725712017-08-14T08:07:00.004-07:002017-08-18T06:23:59.721-07:00Tooth ache…<style>
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<span style="font-family: "verdana"; font-size: 9.0pt;">August 17 </span></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "verdana"; font-size: 9.0pt;">The alps this Summer was always
going to be tricky with less snow over the winter period than normal and then
very high early season temperatures…Mark takes up the story.</span></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "verdana"; font-size: 9.0pt;">Craig and I arrived in Chamonix
knowing that the Frendo was not in condition. So, after a day at the crag we
headed up the Midi for a look at the Midi Plan Traverse…we got as far as the
col and turned back as there was a lack of good snow cover to make the climb
possible or enjoyable. On return to the Midi we opted for the Cosmic Arête,
this was on rock all the way and was quiet so we made good time despite coming
from sea level the day before.</span></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "verdana"; font-size: 9.0pt;">The next day we headed to the
Torino hut to put ourselves into a good position for the </span><span style="font-family: "verdana"; font-size: 9.0pt;">Dent du Géant and make use of the only good stable day
forecast for that week.</span><br />
<br />
<span style="font-family: "verdana"; font-size: 9.0pt;">We headed out in the afternoon to scope the route and
see how many slots we would be negotiating next morning. After a night of no
sleep and reminding ourselves that alpine huts are not for sleeping in (they
are for spending the night in!) we were up and out the door at 4:30am. The
glacier had firmed up nicely and we made good time to the rock band after point
3537. We tiptoed over the loose rock for an hr to get to the Salle a Manger to
find others already on the route.</span></div>
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<br /></div>
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<span style="font-family: "verdana"; font-size: 9.0pt;">Surprised to find all other parties
were sporting full racks and rock shoes, we on the other hand had 4 slings, 4
draws and big boots. The first pitch had some fixed cord to pull on but the
climbing went at 4 so we carried on keeping the pitches quite short till we got
to the Burgener slabs. The route was busy but we held our own and arrived at
the summit by pulling on the odd ankle and standing on Italian and French
guides heads (or Heids as we sometimes say here in Scotland).</span></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "verdana"; font-size: 9.0pt;">We made the normal abseil down the
short side easily with 3 x 60m raps but not before the Italian guide managed to
cluster f**k our ropes (this is a true European skill). This
meant 4 of us had to hang, unite and sort the tangled mess (Craig is
quite skilled at this).</span></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "verdana"; font-size: 9.0pt;">Heading down to the glacier the air
was full of the sound of falling rocks so it was no great surprise when
stepping across the bergschrund that half the hill (mountain) fell across our
path…Running at altitude tied to a rope should be in the Olympics!</span></div>
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<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "verdana"; font-size: 9.0pt;">Safely back in Cham we set about
replacing the 3,000 odd calories burnt by eating double Pizza and rehydrating
with <span style="color: black; mso-themecolor: text1;">grande biere.</span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "verdana"; font-size: 9.0pt;">The next day as per the forecast
the rain thundered down, but we were happy siting about eating more pizza and
drinking copious cappuccinos (lots of<span style="color: red;"> </span><span style="color: black; mso-themecolor: text1;">biere).</span></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "verdana"; font-size: 9.0pt;">With a deteriorating weather
forecast our planned move to Switzerland for a go at the Matterhorn didn’t
happen so we set about reading guide books for easy long routes at lower
altitude to do in the rain. </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="text-align: justify;">
<span style="font-family: "verdana"; font-size: 9.0pt;">All in we had a great trip even if
it was cut short by the storms…</span></div>
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<br />Vertical Obsessionhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09591033178589270966noreply@blogger.com6tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6386519503511645236.post-74821241616348923742017-05-29T09:33:00.001-07:002017-05-30T11:03:08.940-07:00Meat in the SandwichCraig and Mark followed the sunshine on Saturday, seeking a new route but one which has been much admired from a distance. It's been a few years since Corrie an Lochan was visited, maybe 7, 8, 9 even 10 years since Craig and Bill climbed RH Y Gully??, and it's a very pleasant walk in if a little rough in places over the boulders.<br />
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Craig takes up the story...<br />
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Savage Slit was on our minds and I recall seeing it that winter thinking it looked such an awesome line...not necessarily in winter at that time for me!! Things have changed a little since then, tho the walk in pretty much was as I recalled...lovely <br />
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The approaching cliffs look very enticing and SS is well over the right, so we headed past the beautiful lochans, with the great slab coming into view in all its avalanche threatening horror; smooth and perfectly angled - it even released a bit of snow as we made our way to the cliff!<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Great Slab in the corrie - Scotland's most renowned avalanche site?</td></tr>
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Past the lochan, it's a nice steep pull up a gravely path to the base, where we came upon a pair on P1 who had been completely invisible to us on the walking...a surprise but we had a nice chat and a leisurely prep as they cleared the first stance. <br />
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It's intimidatingly steep from below and understandably demands respect; Mark took P1 whilst I watched & belayed attentively. The book suggests a 10m first pitch followed by a 20m second; this seemed counter-intuitive (even in winter I don't see the benefit but what do I know) so he linked 1 & 2 together, as the first pair had, and struck off up the inviting rock and 'slit'.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The view up P1, as Mark actually abs off the top after we finished</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The view down from P1</td></tr>
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P1 is a lovely opening pitch with nice bridging and generally stays out the Slit. The rock is super grippy granite with plenty amenable hand holds and an abundance of foot placements. The attention it receives in winter is obvious with the wear on the rock from crampons and picks on numerous key placement edges in much evidence. <br />
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The only thing about the stance on P1 is the low head height which hardly helps Mark or I as we kept banging our heads on the overhead rock!! A slick change over and I was off up P2 with a meaty start onto a small platform after about 10 feet, providing a nice photo opportunity;<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Craig's feet heading off up P2</td></tr>
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P2 is a lovely pitch, which kept me in the Slit for much of the time and a lovely place it is too. The hand holds are there when you want them and the narrow constriction in the slit offers nice if narrow bridging and chimneying, and even a little lay backing. The pitch terminates on a nice spacious ledge serving at least three climbs and obviously well set up as an abseil station.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Mark approaching the abseil stances on P2</td></tr>
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The book suggests the final pitch is of limited enjoyment and so it proved with an easy scramble interjected with a pull over an overhang. We got to the top and abb'ed straight back down to the abseil stance proper and used the plethora of heavy duty in situ tat and krab to get back down where we met Allan and Morag who were up for a split shift climb from the Lodge. As we chatted and checked out, they headed off for a fun day. The walk out was fast and sunny...<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Every pic with an iPhone 7 - what a camera!</td></tr>
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...and we got back to the car in a sweat! It's a long drive and an average walk in to the Gorms from Glasgow but today was worth it. What lovely climb! Reasonable on the grade and a stunning location with a quick abseil back to the bags...what's not to like. <br />
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We scoped the climb and thought of winter; it's a V6 and a serious proposition for us...but maybe worth the effort to try. </div>
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Definite Type 1 Fun today.</div>
Craig Coidhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07514432923293968340noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6386519503511645236.post-54499771505895402172017-05-16T12:46:00.000-07:002017-05-17T11:43:23.830-07:00Cairngorms; Into the WildsCraig and Bill went into the southern 'Gorms from the Punchbowl seeking a wee adventure on the bikes scoping a dofe route for East Dunbartonshire Council. A sweet looking route was identified and we set off in the sun seeking single track sweetness.<br>
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Craig and Bill have explored a bit of the S' Gorms but this took them to River Avon and the stepping stones, thence to an eastward route down the River Avon. Sadly, after the Hutchison Memorial Hut turn off, the path becomes very bumpy and unrideable all the way to the Refuge at the River Avon...bummer.<br>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Single track ahead</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4gPsyaUZ0IuQegyw2zI72rVmsPSjzRRTpHdeYDB5I20lPSzQ6wJfuJ6ORtWqOlRGXuJdKY5RjjVtGb1FMSndYhyphenhyphenbetvz8OwaOvPnhegjawcPIEv2a3ev5SRUcmGx2xj0a8VR_mickPuwP/s1600/DSCN8882.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4gPsyaUZ0IuQegyw2zI72rVmsPSjzRRTpHdeYDB5I20lPSzQ6wJfuJ6ORtWqOlRGXuJdKY5RjjVtGb1FMSndYhyphenhyphenbetvz8OwaOvPnhegjawcPIEv2a3ev5SRUcmGx2xj0a8VR_mickPuwP/s320/DSCN8882.JPG" width="320"></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Time for a swim Jason?</td></tr>
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEib1Ser1pM6sKLJxrryu2yzOtUgG8Rw28v6a42_YVgEjsHO1FUraYbPS3IUxhIxGPV268JT6rx7QnV3f6r7BKUGTX5gNweaZP4riBdDt32Jwr6ynMjz9UavKOmXdCor-3YJ6U3TGFczD-9Z/s1600/DSCN8895.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEib1Ser1pM6sKLJxrryu2yzOtUgG8Rw28v6a42_YVgEjsHO1FUraYbPS3IUxhIxGPV268JT6rx7QnV3f6r7BKUGTX5gNweaZP4riBdDt32Jwr6ynMjz9UavKOmXdCor-3YJ6U3TGFczD-9Z/s320/DSCN8895.JPG" width="320"></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">River Avon</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiowb_M8yx9SJlbRY8kTCtb3sMkeiAU9ZKKfWRFDcNOw0c9CO_u0b3TJletzO_FfXab00QeD4aGrBbG6N3yP5vCAUm_aMs0zSbIUsf3qWhnHgCZEfWu3D6e9Th1S8PfgS_zbMfbXS9ark2-/s1600/DSCN8898.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiowb_M8yx9SJlbRY8kTCtb3sMkeiAU9ZKKfWRFDcNOw0c9CO_u0b3TJletzO_FfXab00QeD4aGrBbG6N3yP5vCAUm_aMs0zSbIUsf3qWhnHgCZEfWu3D6e9Th1S8PfgS_zbMfbXS9ark2-/s320/DSCN8898.JPG" width="320"></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Bill contemplative?</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVxYDb3j6qNSdT-261nTLePIJrDvRqaNxstb_SvhUIBxZdFc3zbGEg0mXouNum06ekqc9UQ5rlqPyaPWqW34copbh-WuUuJXiKku6XkLhlY6CkxxDCA2cV539b_cD6sLdWX8VQPYNJqE6P/s1600/DSCN8899.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVxYDb3j6qNSdT-261nTLePIJrDvRqaNxstb_SvhUIBxZdFc3zbGEg0mXouNum06ekqc9UQ5rlqPyaPWqW34copbh-WuUuJXiKku6XkLhlY6CkxxDCA2cV539b_cD6sLdWX8VQPYNJqE6P/s320/DSCN8899.JPG" width="320"></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Arty Farty...</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgB0rtHNtMW-So8qCo0HhRFxRjPq7YeLSqcfwYdXZkiXvyuvpj6ssgIXpbVqJwqj0ZL7O4jICmMsYn1IQ2DNGhtcTKLYsDMfx8QlZk1ElPd3UeMf_wEhgP-AeXGzov-S9UmKf9J-jlMUyG5/s1600/DSCN8900.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgB0rtHNtMW-So8qCo0HhRFxRjPq7YeLSqcfwYdXZkiXvyuvpj6ssgIXpbVqJwqj0ZL7O4jICmMsYn1IQ2DNGhtcTKLYsDMfx8QlZk1ElPd3UeMf_wEhgP-AeXGzov-S9UmKf9J-jlMUyG5/s320/DSCN8900.JPG" width="320"></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Nice wee refuge :)<div style="text-align: justify;">
<br></div>
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After a long push down the River Avon, we got on our bikes again for the last leg to Faindouran bothy...what we later learned was three hours short of our intended bivy site!! However, tired and getting cold, we decided the bothy was too good to miss and we settled down for the night, with some food and music. This is a wonderful bothy, well done MBA; clean, well stocked with wood and warm despite it being at least -3c overnight. <div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEht4v8tZtq_O49PZyVoTMUyivivmipcGgPn0WE9DwbiiAPwE5aPgJTYlVRXUSeGP23i116s9n5TImQlwI4gOu5AuGud-VslXiuJ-tCbYEVcYgMk9hmtluL9jKot-SfHJtgr9IFrlI30E3H1/s1600/DSCN8909.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEht4v8tZtq_O49PZyVoTMUyivivmipcGgPn0WE9DwbiiAPwE5aPgJTYlVRXUSeGP23i116s9n5TImQlwI4gOu5AuGud-VslXiuJ-tCbYEVcYgMk9hmtluL9jKot-SfHJtgr9IFrlI30E3H1/s320/DSCN8909.JPG" width="320"></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Comfy wee spot</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjWVJMzUmHwAxoLZ74RgKSxLzI3uVLL_gSEORPN72regeX3ioyt07jX5kzLFafIp6Iw0-5e1QlIMmknzgGx4Bam0lS4_yW9aXM0CwjfQ5pr12Z6qpEsbsIrRgRpUGAVxM3NM_xxcVxohOyB/s1600/DSCN8920.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjWVJMzUmHwAxoLZ74RgKSxLzI3uVLL_gSEORPN72regeX3ioyt07jX5kzLFafIp6Iw0-5e1QlIMmknzgGx4Bam0lS4_yW9aXM0CwjfQ5pr12Z6qpEsbsIrRgRpUGAVxM3NM_xxcVxohOyB/s320/DSCN8920.JPG" width="320"></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Bothy #2...all of 6 paces away</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVm4EKW51Abce6Qa5VF2kDxP-_qMy4ycE0ZAooOCEjdMojH649_THv5xH_G0D_kqkFbIgLEsXgwXNXNM1qFBkagl5dWTcmZWYYF_vTTH9YlnC2cSOHX53elmE1ZqKRsh4uuRN_c6d4JrmB/s1600/DSCN8930.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVm4EKW51Abce6Qa5VF2kDxP-_qMy4ycE0ZAooOCEjdMojH649_THv5xH_G0D_kqkFbIgLEsXgwXNXNM1qFBkagl5dWTcmZWYYF_vTTH9YlnC2cSOHX53elmE1ZqKRsh4uuRN_c6d4JrmB/s320/DSCN8930.JPG" width="320"></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Wee Pony Man's Bothy</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9ZszcVnfPOTNG02IaRM04nvxL12z-YD5S5LgvEpK_Nuj3zEeMO02-0hIbF2oGzxe-SMv3TBGFxvlzs1IcbgVUy6jdyLZ02eSNbNpCBdrofxW0H23Tiz7KkqL-q5wGiIk1yK4WaMA_0E9d/s1600/DSCN8931.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9ZszcVnfPOTNG02IaRM04nvxL12z-YD5S5LgvEpK_Nuj3zEeMO02-0hIbF2oGzxe-SMv3TBGFxvlzs1IcbgVUy6jdyLZ02eSNbNpCBdrofxW0H23Tiz7KkqL-q5wGiIk1yK4WaMA_0E9d/s320/DSCN8931.JPG" width="320"></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A few stories to tell</td></tr>
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<div>
After an early rise, we were off about 630am and found the Wee Pony Man's Hut...not sure if it was the pony or the men who were small but its a great wee find and would make a good howff overnight if required. The path is well rideable from here for a long distance and we made good time. <br><br>
The big house at Inchrory is mighty impressive and we then headed south for Lochbuilg with some lovely single track enroute. <br>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgD7_qUGdJwaAOiNSgoGh_T3Kc3HbRVREYIaG9WUJwf90Gl-5KlGqK5COIUr4kO_sYyqisnIzSC6mWdsLAXqFwdE7IRp5j1Lf_YnOAbFddejmz4xMo7-vpjcnEJgNPfSOWrtLlqN_50Iunf/s1600/DSCN8941.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgD7_qUGdJwaAOiNSgoGh_T3Kc3HbRVREYIaG9WUJwf90Gl-5KlGqK5COIUr4kO_sYyqisnIzSC6mWdsLAXqFwdE7IRp5j1Lf_YnOAbFddejmz4xMo7-vpjcnEJgNPfSOWrtLlqN_50Iunf/s320/DSCN8941.JPG" width="320"></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Heading for Linn of Avon - beautiful :)</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjfs0dV4UBEYjf4kyYW_kS8zrVfYlXpQSSidxoAawJdhlw075LsaJYoUNMRGlQ3sV6-Ibf3SesZSmvF3UU-QKGkDLyw2_F6xF44ggoalE1BZdG8SXvJeeeO5X1pbA1Ok-25KkVCLd_pXXi6/s1600/DSCN8945.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjfs0dV4UBEYjf4kyYW_kS8zrVfYlXpQSSidxoAawJdhlw075LsaJYoUNMRGlQ3sV6-Ibf3SesZSmvF3UU-QKGkDLyw2_F6xF44ggoalE1BZdG8SXvJeeeO5X1pbA1Ok-25KkVCLd_pXXi6/s320/DSCN8945.JPG" width="320"></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Raised beaches on Lochbuilg...what's the story??</td></tr>
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A bit of walking to get through Creag an Dail Mhor and Beag saw us approaching civilisation again...we saw people far in the distance but saw after a coulee of beautiful spots;<br>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjSuu2QQmsEbOhocbM2eLlALNcyWYLcTqvnnc92oC_EeJtqwZOmRtnGE6sV2U6h5hqzo-4Jndci_uSeia-ZIQOEkCvYXOMEshuq52bMjbLqBHk8vKvF5PSmqrQCGH-pUdFnF0RyR3GMAD9z/s1600/DSCN8964.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjSuu2QQmsEbOhocbM2eLlALNcyWYLcTqvnnc92oC_EeJtqwZOmRtnGE6sV2U6h5hqzo-4Jndci_uSeia-ZIQOEkCvYXOMEshuq52bMjbLqBHk8vKvF5PSmqrQCGH-pUdFnF0RyR3GMAD9z/s320/DSCN8964.JPG" width="320"></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A rather pleasant spot</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgYAURfZAcKcuX8U2_-exPEnZE1g-q9Y3dWCsru_lcNXigD6u6ADuDV3dKL8fh7rkiNoVdOeXjhGyuaU6GJeHHknG60IbDXruA1yr6p6XFmQNufTFyxXDhf8RltxbDQtYU9kWycVQtFff_H/s1600/DSCN8968.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgYAURfZAcKcuX8U2_-exPEnZE1g-q9Y3dWCsru_lcNXigD6u6ADuDV3dKL8fh7rkiNoVdOeXjhGyuaU6GJeHHknG60IbDXruA1yr6p6XFmQNufTFyxXDhf8RltxbDQtYU9kWycVQtFff_H/s320/DSCN8968.JPG" width="320"></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Be honest...is this Scotland?? Damn right!!!</td></tr>
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Not long after this we got back to the van and somewhat refreshed our selves at the rather special Bramear Bothy Cafe on cake, coffee, coke and scone...burnt a few calories; put them straight back on. </div>
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More especially with the large coke and McFlurry in Perth!! Who gives a ...........</div>
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Anyway, a great wee adventure into the wilds, rewarded with sun, snow, single track and...scones!</div>
Craig Coidhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07514432923293968340noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6386519503511645236.post-19579375695692870372017-04-25T10:12:00.004-07:002017-04-25T10:12:47.535-07:00Day to Day Mixed ClimbingAfter a very disappointing winter season, Craig and Mark were off for some rock action but optimistically (after recent reports) took some winter kit 'just in case'!!<br />
<br />
Saturday saw a visit to the HS Ardverikie Wall with 4 pitches of fun climbing in a stunning location. Craig led the hero pitch 1 with a long run-<br />
out on beautiful grippy microgranite; he ran the first 2 pitches together but it seemed the obvious thing to do.<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEheRFPXPLwCz7YvmM1NGjehPz_pDvhDdYA6luWSNY13f8H7GpyazQFTzaPA2ZkCckJsvfgO4kUCPCbpAJvLiLPEL7OCIQtmaDg3suz1wukEbzxgrEP_f2esu6s51TSWIPNHCCPPsmZeEzh8/s1600/IMG_9646.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEheRFPXPLwCz7YvmM1NGjehPz_pDvhDdYA6luWSNY13f8H7GpyazQFTzaPA2ZkCckJsvfgO4kUCPCbpAJvLiLPEL7OCIQtmaDg3suz1wukEbzxgrEP_f2esu6s51TSWIPNHCCPPsmZeEzh8/s320/IMG_9646.JPG" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Craig high on P1</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEghJwiexqzngduiujBf56rlNQdxS8hgasonHEQX94d1fMGhbjC8ZY7-bMsonUmfr4ahHvql8U-Ag4Aj0JIv2LQLL66sjkRHseJyfj05pTpIpV9CyzjQdgtnsJZ94rCvIt-o2yKD7veqb9st/s1600/FullSizeRender.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEghJwiexqzngduiujBf56rlNQdxS8hgasonHEQX94d1fMGhbjC8ZY7-bMsonUmfr4ahHvql8U-Ag4Aj0JIv2LQLL66sjkRHseJyfj05pTpIpV9CyzjQdgtnsJZ94rCvIt-o2yKD7veqb9st/s320/FullSizeRender.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Mark coming up P1 slab</td></tr>
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Mark ran the flake pitch with a tricky move or two as well as the 4th pitch which was a bit wet and slippy. <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjcleaGmatMgFI8fEfPEr5VhJ7Og-kwSfPfZPRpNU2IMUu8iIFuWkit622uH0I-pVM8HNSe7lq6HtAzz7f_It_9VLuQUJe36M4ZsRk0U7yapvdXmOiauLSeOsUtCSYp238DCJhUPWl0z0YO/s1600/IMG_9624.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjcleaGmatMgFI8fEfPEr5VhJ7Og-kwSfPfZPRpNU2IMUu8iIFuWkit622uH0I-pVM8HNSe7lq6HtAzz7f_It_9VLuQUJe36M4ZsRk0U7yapvdXmOiauLSeOsUtCSYp238DCJhUPWl0z0YO/s320/IMG_9624.JPG" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Mark moving onto the Flake pitch</td></tr>
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Nonetheless, a super climb in cold conditions - snow counts as cold I believe!! They topped the peak and took a direct line to the car and pizza in the Grog and Gruel. <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhAMlw23xSMlWWtldxbfwFoJj4ulPffEL0Vdm3tSufqwIW8paoD1plHKZq7rDFlRlA29rEnScGM9cyb3fth9brdD5-fj0_y_7ZUuN8CO1Bqq1EYcpzuAq-qb1q1s106kPtG0jUQvKEvVeKW/s1600/IMG_9682.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhAMlw23xSMlWWtldxbfwFoJj4ulPffEL0Vdm3tSufqwIW8paoD1plHKZq7rDFlRlA29rEnScGM9cyb3fth9brdD5-fj0_y_7ZUuN8CO1Bqq1EYcpzuAq-qb1q1s106kPtG0jUQvKEvVeKW/s320/IMG_9682.JPG" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Cozy....</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Overnight in the NF carpark (slumdog disco-life and a nice Rioja with Pringles) saw them second guessing the weather for rock or a Ben classic ridge...low cloud dictated the Ben and crampons with a single tech axe saw them head for Tower Ridge. <br />
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It's never a short day on the Ben and the walk in was cold, windy and long but a pleasant chat with folks at the hut saw them heading for the ridge past the Gap. Sans axe and crampons until the start of the Little Tower saw good progress with careful footwork on the rock. Thereafter crampons made sense and things a bit easier. <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh9zahwMBangLlPECGBV2BVhO3mhxHAUfZwdsxW3Iz6dgQUTJdoHD8A5VVcbHwh3dZ81XmGTiuHcV8fLloX_aBuHIun4XLzm9_EjVQlATSL9pdnMkMui-mfZPyfvkBR2pPhs6JRZKzNaMnc/s1600/IMG_9687.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh9zahwMBangLlPECGBV2BVhO3mhxHAUfZwdsxW3Iz6dgQUTJdoHD8A5VVcbHwh3dZ81XmGTiuHcV8fLloX_aBuHIun4XLzm9_EjVQlATSL9pdnMkMui-mfZPyfvkBR2pPhs6JRZKzNaMnc/s320/IMG_9687.JPG" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Mark on the Eastern Traverse</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
The snow was fairly well frozen in places with reasonable hard compacted snow and one wouldn't want to cross the traverse without crampons on. We Gap itself was as good as snow free but the exit slopes were well covered. They then headed for No 4 Gully and dropped down for an escape to the car and home.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj03a6H8Q6kbxtPw4_Ib9EpqygwOM-0CYSBDUtGVjh9cZJBCTuRchqWSLJfCvY0moYkAIuKj31xGmfLg6VY72UvuMVYvfjKM-dTYNMx5zRBOWVQOHMLRkSqUqer1SkrD7LNUDJo0PHr6Llj/s1600/IMG_9704.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj03a6H8Q6kbxtPw4_Ib9EpqygwOM-0CYSBDUtGVjh9cZJBCTuRchqWSLJfCvY0moYkAIuKj31xGmfLg6VY72UvuMVYvfjKM-dTYNMx5zRBOWVQOHMLRkSqUqer1SkrD7LNUDJo0PHr6Llj/s320/IMG_9704.JPG" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Looking back onto Tower Gap</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
A great adventure weekend with a real contrast in climbing styles but both days definitely Type 1 fun.Craig Coidhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07514432923293968340noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6386519503511645236.post-60084229883541909092017-03-09T12:23:00.001-08:002017-03-09T12:23:43.210-08:00 Sub optimal…<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<span style="font-family: "verdana"; font-size: 9.0pt;">Winter 2016 - 20917</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "verdana"; font-size: 9.0pt;">Both Craig and Mark have tweeted @HaveAnEpic @Mark_SimplyEpic more than blogged this
winter, just being lazy I guess, but it is a good way of getting info on
conditions out there fast and this year the conditions have been “in” and “not
in” faster than a fast thing. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "verdana"; font-size: 9.0pt;">It’s not been a great winter season with everyone climbing
less routes but still going tooled up into the hills to look for optimal
conditions but finding sub optimal (mostly).</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "verdana"; font-size: 9.0pt;">The highlights for us have been Seam IV,5 Cairngorms, Shelf Route IV,6 <span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"></span></span><span style="font-family: "verdana"; font-size: 9.0pt;"><span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"><span style="font-family: "verdana"; font-size: 9.0pt;">A fantastic
day but thin conditions</span></span> a couple of assents of The North Buttress of
Buachaille Etive Mor IV, 4 this is great route that is climable in most if not all
conditions, our last outing was probably the best conditions we have had on it
but 3 days later it was black once again. Castle Ridge on Ben Nevis with a good
dusting of snow to make interesting but not difficult...</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "verdana"; font-size: 9.0pt;">Other days that were less fruitful but still spicy, due
to conditions; we bailed on D Gully Buttress IV,4 having only one 25m half
rope and 6 nuts we charmed the party behind us to do the same as they thought
they were on Curved Ridge, this is a common mistake it seems as the party
behind them also were on the wrong route, anyway we all bailed and it was all very sociable.
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<span style="font-family: "verdana"; font-size: 9.0pt;">We started up what we thought was Ordinary Route IV on
Cuneiform Buttress only to realise that it was most likely Ravens Edge VII,7 –
eek, bailed, we are good at bailing!</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "verdana"; font-size: 9.0pt;">Winters not over (hopefully) but it feels like early June today…hoping for Crypt Route this weekend...:)</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "verdana"; font-size: 9.0pt;">Some pics of various route and days on the hill.</span></div>
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Vertical Obsessionhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09591033178589270966noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6386519503511645236.post-48539807303928882882016-11-21T13:38:00.005-08:002016-11-24T03:49:25.299-08:00Chasing the EpiduralCraig and Mark have been blown about and soaked through in the last two outings but this weekend's weather brought calm and a serious amount of snow. It was thick and unconsolidated so something sensible and worthwhile was needed to prevent a slog-fest.<br />
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The North Buttress of Buachaille Etive Mor is a lovely IV 4 with a great approach and fun climbing in the current conditions - a rocky climb with plenty of hooks and a spectacular situation.<br />
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An inversion prevented a blue sky start but it was cold on the walk in and we noticed the early development of hoar frost around the 600m mark. Higher up it disappeared but the inversion probably had a hand in that. Leaving the path after Great Gully, we struck up on increasingly slippy ground and crampons were on early, which made travel much easier.<br />
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There is a LOT of snow lying on the ground and it is pretty wet and sticky just now, clinging to everything. We arrived at the start and Mark took P1 on soft snow and unfrozen rock - care and attention was needed, especially as this was the first time out this winter. <br />
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Craig followed through onto P2 and after the tricky first chimney, easier ground led to a swim-fest of 4ft walls of snow which collapsed under each step. After struggling manfully for 30m on the easier ground, common sense prevailed and a down climb to a good spike settled our high point. Mark followed on and, once safe, a sarnie for lunch seemed as good an idea as any.<br />
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Thereafter, the first of this season's abseils was executed, taking us 120m down in 2 abseils, thence a walk out to the path and the car. All in, a great day out; good choices and decisions saw a successful first winter day for us.<br />
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Worth noting the weather above the inversion was stunning; the summit shelter on the Ben was visible with ease and it was a true white winter wonderland for 360 degrees. More of the same please.<br />
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<br />Craig Coidhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07514432923293968340noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6386519503511645236.post-16553287263410164342016-10-25T06:31:00.000-07:002016-10-25T06:31:14.571-07:00Florence…23 October 2016<br /><br />A call off on Saturday gave Linda the opportunity to call in her Simply Epic Adventure birthday gift voucher with Mark on Sunday. <br /><br />The weather was set to be fair with sun mid-morning, but the wind was cold when we made our way up Am Bodach.<br /><br />Linda having a low centre of gravity has good sense of balance and made the initial down climb look easy. We both enjoyed the mountaineering style journey to Meall Dearg - the official start of the Aonach Eagach ridge. Consistent exposure and beautiful views with varied scrambling; taking in everything from terraced ridges and knife-edged arêtes to towering chimneys . We made our way across the crazy pinnacles before the final pull up to to Stob Coire Leith.<br /><br />We descended from the summit to the Clachaig road junction and thumbed a lift back to the start point.<br />
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<br />Vertical Obsessionhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09591033178589270966noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6386519503511645236.post-34369618320820509032016-10-10T02:28:00.004-07:002016-10-10T09:13:56.971-07:00Pterodactyl Attack 9 October 2016<br />
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After a long hard summer of work, injuries and disappointments, Craig and Mark got out onto the Cobbler today with a psyche to climb in the sun.</div>
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A not too early start saw them leaving Glen Croe for the slog up the Cobbler via the west face. An hour plus later, they arrived at the Beallach and dropped down to the wonderful face of the north peak for some action. </div>
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They climbed Incubator six years (jeez!!) ago and decided it needed a revisit. It's a meaty HS 4b with three lovely pitches offering their own challenges along the way. Craig headed off up the first pitch, a pleasant introduction to the joys of mica schist in the dry...grippy but hollow rock in places. </div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">P1 heading off</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Mark coming over the lip of P1</td></tr>
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The next pitch is short with a sting on leaving the stance; an off-balance overhung sloppy hold type move with little confidence but well protected. Despatched with aplomb, Mark brought Craig up to the crux balance-centric, bridging fest with a weird phallus rock protrusion half way up.</div>
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Craig won the rock paper scissors duel and headed off up the steep crack corner, lacing it up like a wild Western bar girl trying to look thin. Half way up, the crack line terminates and it seemed churlish, if not irresponsible, not to make use of the phallus rock for safety, despite the sense of inadequacy it engendered...</div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Craig on P3</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Mark leaving the crack line and heading for the haven on P3</td></tr>
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The pitch kept on giving and involved some balance moves to escape the line right into a notch/haven and first available stance. Mark followed up with style and led off up the final short rock moves which we didn't really recall from 6 years ago. The guide book may reveal the proper finish if we got it wrong but it all seemed logical, unlike the heat from the October sun!</div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Craig coming over the lip of an awkward move on P4</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Coupla geezers...</td></tr>
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An old egg sandwich for Mark and smoked salmon for Craig saw them back to the car in the sun in jig time for coffee and cake in Arrochar. A grand day in the hills for the boys, knocking off their THIRD!!! rock climb of the season - where has the time gone?</div>
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Crikey, roll on the winter season...<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A ubiquitous new species of plant...?</td></tr>
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Sad that people are so despicable in the hills...one of many we retrieved on the walk out!<br />
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Craig Coidhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07514432923293968340noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6386519503511645236.post-26079540917660279462016-09-23T04:02:00.000-07:002016-09-23T04:02:12.351-07:00The borrowers…18 September 2016<br />
<br />Kevin and Jane were keen to add another Munro to their tally.<br />The weather was in-coming so we decided upon Ben More as it’s near and we could go direct to the summit in a bid to get a view.<br />
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Sadly this never happened but it was great fun never-the-less and we met some enthusiastic people on the summit to take our pic.<br />
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Funny things happen when you ascend hills you have been on before - you remember the people, the friends, the conversations, events and stories told… Ben More is on of those hills and my head was full them on Sunday.<br />
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<br />Craig and Bill are as normal for this month on back-to-back DofE expedition…<br /><br />
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<br />Vertical Obsessionhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09591033178589270966noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6386519503511645236.post-38414257752584840102016-09-05T02:56:00.002-07:002016-09-29T14:08:12.828-07:00Late Birds<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">Some pictures from an earlier summer climbing trip on the Cobbler. Can't recall the route name but it was very pleasant. A nice traverse on the route. Simply epic fun </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<br>Craig Coidhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07514432923293968340noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6386519503511645236.post-26901451807615878222016-09-05T02:56:00.001-07:002016-09-05T02:56:10.206-07:00Jugs...4 September 2016<br />
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First time on rock for Linda climbing
the uber classic Curved Ridge on Buachaille Etive Mor Glen Coe with
Mark on Sunday. The rock was a bit greasy in places but it was very
atsmospheric and Linda threw all the right shapes when needed.<br />
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They had lunch on Crowbery Tower before heading to the summit.<br />
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<br /><br />Vertical Obsessionhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09591033178589270966noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6386519503511645236.post-73436329333706963632016-05-31T06:48:00.001-07:002016-05-31T06:48:44.092-07:00School of RockAfter a pretty good winter, Craig and Mark got out on to rock for the first time this season...and that means the Bookle - and why not?<br />
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The sun was out and the rock was grippy like a grippy thing, so we headed up with options in mind, largely depending on Mark's recovering ankle after a twist on the hill some three weeks previously.<br />
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We were first up and got to the Waterslab in good time and North Face Route was the chosen objective; we'd climbed once previously and it was a fun route though a little greasy on that occasion. <br />
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We swapped the start and Craig headed up the first pitch. The rock was delightful, grippy and warm, and the views were, as always, stupendous.<br />
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Mark had the lovely traverse pitch...<br />
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and Craig linked the next two pitches together up the corner and chimney - a great idea as both pitches are short and run nicely in series.<br />
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Mark had the final pitch with the 'hero shot'...<br />
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On finishing, we saw that avoiding the Rannoch Wall was a good idea, as it was a tad busy. Descent down Curved Ridge and back to the car in the sunshine saw an alpine-esque day in the heat and ice-cream at the Welly!<br />
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All in a super day to get back in 'top gear' for a summer of rock and adventure.Craig Coidhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07514432923293968340noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6386519503511645236.post-33316582036368428822016-05-22T13:06:00.001-07:002016-05-22T13:09:13.894-07:00A summer of adventure...Summer is full on Bronze, Silver and Gold DofE for the Simply Epic team and trusted associates. So far this year, we have slept under tent 30 nights and it's not June yet!<br />
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Summer continues apace with more DofE groups, cragging adventures, some epic mountain bike adventures, Munro bagging for a charity group and <a href="http://www.simplyepicadventures.co.uk/p/l.html">Mountain Bike Leadership - Level 2</a> training and assessments throughout the summer.<br />
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Get in touch to organise your adventure or plan your training or assesment <a href="http://www.simplyepicadventures.co.uk/p/simply-contact.html">here</a><br />
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<br />Vertical Obsessionhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09591033178589270966noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6386519503511645236.post-62423375605037486162016-04-19T08:01:00.001-07:002016-04-19T13:13:51.202-07:00Lion's Den...<b>Point 5</b><br />
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Craig and Mark thought winter was over but some recent action suggested otherwise.<br />
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Point Five in mind, the boys were up at 330 for an early start and headed for the Ben with some excitement. Weather gods were good and the rain stayed off and it was 4'C at the top carpark...with things looking white enough.<br />
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The usual long walk in was dusted and they headed for Observatory Gully, which looked white. There were flutters of snow and the cloud covered the summit down to around 1000m but occasional glimpse of P5 suggested it looked good.<br />
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A pair were ahead starting up the Chimney pitch and as always getting to the base took longer due to the steep approaches. A single screw belay and Craig was off to run the ropes out. The placements were pretty good but the ice a bit cruddy in places and out of 5 screws only 1 felt good, the others hitting air in the ice or just being pretty crap, though there is the usual tat in place to clip...with little real confidence.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">'Fast' approaching the route?</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Looking down from the first belay<br /></td></tr>
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The route is a bit banked on P1 and we started higher than usual, so Craig ran the Chimney pitch to the top of its first steep section and set up a good nut belay. The amount of spindrift coming down the route was worrying; initially it seemed it might be the team ahead but the volume was at times heart stopping and increased with progress.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Under the maelstrom</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Belay before the rogue pitch </td></tr>
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Mark came up and joined Craig on a tight belay and headed off up the final steepening of the Chimney pitch and thence to the Rogue pitch which had nice ice and took a couple of better screws. The amount of spindrift was now concerning, as if it wasn't before, and after Craig joined Mark, a quick chat and a good decision was made to set up a belay and retreat down the gully; ahead looked grim in the mist and clearly the slopes were getting loaded with little pro on the pitches above.<br />
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On an abseil point half way on P2, a massive spindrift 'avalanche' launched down drenching us for a full minute at least...felt longer; we were 2 ft apart and couldn't see each other...that bad!! Once it abated, we quickly set up and escaped far down our descent to Observatory Gully and the hut.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Nice hanging belay</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">They eyes have it... Craig on belay</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Escape into the void</td></tr>
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It's a wonderful climb in good nick just now. We thought it a bit steeper in the Chimney pitch than previously but it had just enough bridging opportunities to make for comfortable screw placements. <br />
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All in a proper belter of a day; steep climbing, challenging conditions and spicy enough to feel tested! <br />
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Sadly, that might just be it for us this winter...proper work beckons; after the best day of the season too!Craig Coidhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07514432923293968340noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6386519503511645236.post-37555619240188235032016-03-23T08:45:00.001-07:002016-03-25T01:24:36.795-07:00McFlurry...<div><span style="font-family: 'Helvetica Neue Light', HelveticaNeue-Light, helvetica, arial, sans-serif;">Craig and Mark headed to the Ben to climb some ice although they knew this
was unlikely as the thaw they witnessed a few days before had continued.</span></div><br>The
Ice was still fat, but with natural release coming down most routes, they thought better of it and climbed onto Tower Ridge via a pleasant solo up Faulty Towers.<br><br>The ridge was in good condition - crampons the whole way - and they soloed till the pitch before the Eastern traverse. A quick catch up and chat with <a href="http://www.abacusmountainguides.com/blog" target="_blank">Mike</a> and client at the gap and before they knew it they were on the top with shades on in 16º heat.<br>
<br>The team headed down number 4 - thanks Tom for use of your rope - and back to the North Face car park in super quick time.<div><br></div><div>A super day out in stellar weather, if not climbing, conditions. <br>
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<br></div>Vertical Obsessionhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09591033178589270966noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6386519503511645236.post-82549463715240853502016-03-12T13:42:00.002-08:002016-03-13T01:25:18.708-08:00Missing the WormCraig and Mark headed for the Ben early o'clock to get some, hopeful, action on a quality route; notwithstanding the turbo thaw forecast...<br>
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630am departure from the NF carpark saw them ahead of the crowds and walking in 8'c...not promising. Once into the corrie proper heading for CIC hut, it was apparent the faces were black and the thaw had done some serious damage!<br>
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A sarnie stop at the hut and chat saw them head into Observatory Gully for for the Great Chimney - hoping its enclosure might have protected it...some chance.<br>
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On entering Observatory area, a significant but old (2-3 days?) avalanche snout welcomed them and they walked up the W side on soft sugary snow offering no respite nor encouragement a climb was on the cards. Vis was poor and the approach to The Great Chimney provided all the evidence needed to declare it a no go area. <br>
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We chatted, humphed and hawed and then descended a short distance and traversed over to Tower Ridge thinking...but it was never going to be an enjoyable day in soft snow and high winds towards the summit. We scooted round to Vanishing Gully area and despite an 'uber' guy pointing he climbed it on Thursday, sadly, it wasn't Thursday and it was stripped on the top half, and thin/delaminating on the first.<br>
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The Curtain is closed and much blackness is evident. Things are not looking good for this winter; we chatted and determined we have completed two full planned climbs this winter - and we have been out a lot! Sadly lots of bailing and lots and 'walking the rope'!!<br>
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Ce la vie...there's always next week.<div><br></div><div><span style="-webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; background-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">A shout out to Jottnar apparel today; wet, minging weather with a windchill higher up tested the light and heavy weight hard shell jackets and sallopettes we already knew were excellent. The new Alfar midlayer fleece is also an awesome piece of kit. Warm on the walk in but not a sweat fest and toasty in the wind. 10/10 for Jottnar. Top class clothing for mountaineers. </span><br>
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A trip around the cornucopia of beauty, which is Fort William High St, brought the day to a close and we headed home...disappointed indeed! </div><div><br></div><div>But we got out, tried and still had a grand day out; nothing beats a walk in Scotland's winter hills...except a climb in them. <div>
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<br></div></div>Craig Coidhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07514432923293968340noreply@blogger.com0